There is no Spoon: Decrypting the Code in Wine Enthusiast’s Matrix

"The Matrix is everywhere…. It is the world that has been pulled over your eyes to blind you from the truth." Morpheus, The Matrix

Wine scores used to mean something. 98 points from Robert Parker made a winery famous and their wines impossible to acquire. Now, with no leading critic, no single voice, every wine that isn’t outright flawed gets 88 points or better.

Wine media hasn’t abandoned real wine criticism, it has just coded it, crafted it more cleverly. Think demographics, micro-influencers, Somm speak, manufacturing sensory ecosystems through carefully chosen keywords and categories. The noise is the score — 95 points — but the signal is ‘blood sausage’, ‘fernet’, ‘black-rock minerality’.

For the full article go to my Substack

Forget about Wine Education, we need Brand Education

Winery Brand A picks Zinfandel at 29 brix, waters back a little but not too much, because the winemaker wants a “big Zin” and starts fermentation with D254, 3g/L tartaric to start along with some DAP. Might need some more tartaric/DAP later. Any hiccups, dose it with Uvaferm 43 (ramming it home), extended maceration up to 25 days, press hard right on top of the Petite Sirah you pressed out an hour before (cause why not) then finish in 50% new American Missouri and Virginia oak with M+ toast and some 3 year old steam cleaned used barrels. ML bacteria is placed in barrel, not native. Likely 15.5% alc (if they got the water add right), but legally labeled 14% with just enough residual sugar to choke down the booze. Bottle at 12-14 months so it has plenty of punch on release one day after bottling.

For the full post, please go to my Substack

Where is the Tasting Room from 30 years ago?

This is an excerpt from my most recent post on Substack. Give it a look:

As I am seated for my pre-set 5-Wine experiential tasting, I know exactly what’s going to happen. A monologue-style talk, where my “wine concierge” speaks and I just listen. Always the same superlatives, the “best wine”, the “most remarkable vineyard”, “greatest” winemaker, “perfection” in a glass, multiple wines with 95-100 points, 24 months in new French oak from Allier, Nevers, Tronçais, and Vosges, the expanded vocabulary to describe the aroma and flavors, petrichor, early summer white flowers, mineral tension1; the same cadence, inflection, and superlatives over and over.

Beyond the Romance: Run your winery like a business, not a passion project

This is an excerpt from my Case to Case with David Mastro Scheidt on Substack

As the founder, sole owner, and winemaker for Mastro Scheidt Family Cellars, I’ve built a business over 18 years where I have no outside investment and no debt financing. It’s a model based on positive cash flow, not overproducing, releasing several SKUs, and running out of wine. Making wine is easy, selling wine is difficult. Here are 3 Lessons from that experience.

For the full post, go to my Substack to read.

The Legacy Wine Media's Recipe: Old Money, New Winery, Instant Lead Story

Here’s an excerpt from my latest post on Substack. For the full post Click Here.

The same dull trope is being broadcast loud and clear in legacy wine media publications both in print and online, wine is elite, wealthy, makes Cabernet, and isn’t for the unwashed rabble.

It’s cliche, nearly mathematical at this point, so please, let me set up for you on the blackboard a common story in a legacy wine publication:

I just designed The French Laundry’s Wine Pairing Menu with Notebook AI

This is an excerpt from an article I wrote on Substack. Go to Substack for the complete article.

This question isn’t theoretical. Consider the following: A restaurant with a well-curated wine cellar loses their sommelier of 5 years, the same sommelier who designed the wine list. Could the Front of House (FOH) create wine pairings for the multi-course Michelin starred tasting menu with the assistance of AI?

AI could handle this task now, if given proper inputs: a detailed wine list, menu ingredients, the final menu, pricing constraints, and well-crafted queries. I decided to test my hypothesis will a couple real-world examples.

Using Notebook AI, I gathered data from two real-world Michelin starred restaurants, The French Laundry *** (TFL) in Yountville and Acquerello ** in San Francisco. Both sets of data are available to download from their websites.

For the rest of the article, go to Substack. The article is free.

Where are the Winemakers Discussing the Wine Industry?

This is an excerpt from my article on Substack. The article is free to read. Take a look.

We as winemakers and many owners of wineries gave up our authoritative voices to critics, bloggers, Somms, and influencers. We gave it up for higher scores and free marketing. It’s damaging wineries and the wine industry.

Where are the winemakers?

Winemakers are largely absent from direct self-publishing platforms like Substack, much less socials like Insta and YouTube (at least with any critical mass), with some exceptions. Blogging on the winery website is generally geared toward product and event promotion. This leaves a gap for voices willing to share deeper, insider perspectives.

The Somm just recommended Blaufränkisch. Now what?

4 Questions to ask the next time you want to move beyond your favorite Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay.

Question 1: What is the geographical provenance of that fermented elixir that has captivated your esteemed palate for so long?

Sometimes it feels like we speak about our favorite wine like we’re from some bygone Victorian era. However, wine does have its own language and dialect.

These days, if you said your favorite wine is simply “Napa Cab” or “Russian River Chardonnay,” that’s not specific enough or perhaps, not Victorian enough. A Napa Cabernet from the valley floor is not Napa Cabernet from Howell Mountain. Neither is a Russian River Chardonnay near Healdsburg versus near Occidental. How much new oak? Is the oak American or French? How long in barrel? Full malo Chardonnay or only partial? The more specificity in your preferences, the more likely you’ll be able to find an acceptable or even better substitute to your “default” Cab or Chard.

If you’d like to read more, please head to my Substack Page, Case to Case with David Mastro Scheidt. Like. Subscribe. Comment.

From Winemaker to Fancy Bartender in 4 Hours

I’m one of 40 wineries at “Anytown, CA Wine Festival”, with around 200+ wines for guests to sample. It’s four hours long, I’ve got 5 wines to pour and I’m here at the pre-opening VIP session for the buyers, wine writers, influencers, and trade members.

So why are we as winemakers here for 4 hours? A serendipitous encounter? The Lotto Pick that someone loves your wine and buys 5 cases? The wine writer who pops in and ‘discovers’ you? They are random, have nothing to do with actual sales, and are completely out of our control. I ask again, why are we here?

The Dynamics of the Modern Wine Festival is what I tackle next on Case to Case with David Mastro Scheidt on Substack. Click the link to read the entire article, it’s free on Substack. Read it. Comment. Like. Subscribe.

David Mastro Scheidt on Substack at Case to Case

Excerpt from Case to Case with David Mastro Scheidt on Substack

Mastro Scheidt Family Cellars has been in operation since 2007. I am its founder and sole owner. It’s a small winery in Sonoma County, California. It’s a regional success story and it’s a lot of work.

I’m writing because the voice of the working winemaker and owner is almost silent. It’s odd, because we are the ones behind the brands, the wine, and the industry and I want more of us to speak up.

Logistics and Signup

Signing up for Case by Case is Free at present. There will be free content posted on a variety of topics in the winemaking world. In the future, I may put up a paywall for exclusive content and longer form subject matter. It’s a work in progress, just like the winery, so expect changes along the way.

Gamba Oak in the Cellar

I’ve been a fan of Botti Gamba for some time. I’ve put together a short video describing the use of Gamba oak barrels in my cellar for aging Cabernet Sauvignon from Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County.

David Scheidt, Winemaker for Mastro Scheidt explains his use of Botti Gamba oak on Cabernet Sauvignon from Dry Creek Valley

Where to Find Mastro Scheidt Wine in California Updated September 2024

For those interested in finding my wines across the state of California, here is an interactive map from Google. The map is updated regularly as new restaurants and retail will feature Mastro Scheidt as their lists change.

Mastro Scheidt Wines in California

Grilled Lamb Chops with Mastro Scheidt Superstrada

Cucumber, tomato and onion salad with grilled lamb chops and Mastro Scheidt 2016 Superstrada 75% Sangiovese / 25% Cabernet Sauvignon

2 Persian Cucumbers, rough cubes
A couple handfuls of Cherry or Grape tomatoes, cut in half
¼ of a red onion, sliced long
Juice of ½ a Meyer Lemon
Parsley, rough chopped, solid pinch
Dill, rough chopped, a solid pinch
Splash of olive oil
Salt and pepper
Handful of Mixed greens, it could be arugula or baby lettuces

I didn't trim my lamb at all, but you have to be mindful of how much fat they have, they will flare up on a grill. I tend to put the lamb initially on the bottom rack, closest to the fire to get some grill marks and some flame, then move them to the top rack, fat side down to cook. They are rested off heat for 10 minutes before I slice them

I’m serving the 16 Superstrada because the grilled lamb has both weight and fat. The Cabernet adds backbone here in the form of tannin that Sangiovese just doesn’t have. Simple as that.

To make the salad, put everything together in a bowl and give it a good mix. Adjust for salt, pepper, lemon and olive oil. Place your mixed greens in the center of the plate and take a good handful or two of your mix and place directly on top of the greens as the salad with dress itself. If you want more of your dressing, add a tablespoon or two over the top

Arrange your lamb chops decoratively for an Instagram picture

Use your hands to eat the lamb like an absolute savage and a fork to eat your salad like a civilized human

Polenta and sausage with Mastro Scheidt Sangiovese

Polenta and tomato sauce with Mastro Scheidt 2017 Sangiovese

1 cup Corn Meal/Grits/Course Polenta (each of these has a different cooking time and broth amount. You have been warned)
4 Cups Chicken Broth
1/2 stick of butter
1/2 cup of grated Parmigiano Reggiano

Get a stock pot and fill it with all the course corn meal and broth and turn it on. You'll need to stir it initially to break it up and give the polenta time to hydrate. If you follow chefs on TV they have you heat the water and slowly incorporate the corn meal. You don't need to do that, it's overly complex and prone to clumping if you don't do it right

As the polenta gets hotter, you'll need to stir it more until there are no clumps. In about 30 minutes, the polenta will be pretty much ready. You can add fresh cracked black pepper and sage if you'd like as a nice diversion from the normal

Turn off the heat and add your butter and cheese. Start stirring it in. That's pretty much it. You could add cream if you'd like or even more butter

The red sauce and sausage recipe I'm not going through, everyone should know how to make a red sauce by now

Petrale sole over lemon dill risotto paired with Mastro Scheidt The Hunter

Petrale sole over lemon dill risotto paired with 2019 Mastro Scheidt The Hunter

To start the Risotto
1 half yellow or white onion, chopped fine
1 tablespoon of butter
½ cup of Arborio rice
2 cups of chicken broth, warm

Melt your butter in a hot sauté pan and add your onions and then turn the heat down to medium. You don’t want the onions to burn, scorch or turn brown; you just want to sweat them out. Once the onions have gone a little translucent, add your rice and stir the pan regularly for a couple minutes so that the rice cooks and also turns milky white/translucent

Add three ladles of warm chicken broth to the sauté pan and stir through. Now the technique. If your timing is right and you don’t allow your saute pan of rice get too dry, after the initial stirring, you shouldn’t have to stir the rice again until the very end of the process. There should be enough bubbling broth in the pan at all times so the rice never sticks or gets dry

Fast forward about 30 minutes

As you come near the cooking process for the rice you’re going to need the following

¼ cup of heavy cream
¼ cup of grated Parmigiano Cheese
A squeeze of lemon juice
A pinch of chopped fresh dill
A bit more freshly cracked black pepper

Taste your rice and see that it is almost, I repeat almost cooked through but not quite there yet. Don’t worry, you’re going to add a bit more liquid. There shouldn’t be much broth left, about a ¼ cup of broth add it to the pan along with the heavy cream and begin stirring again. Within 5-10 minutes the risotto is taking shape. This is not an exact science. Taste it again and again and again. The rice should be basically done but have a bit more chicken broth handy if it’s not. When the rice is done, add your Parmigiano cheese, lemon juice, dill, adjust for salt and pepper and plate the risotto

At the 5-minute mark for your risotto above, you’ve got to prep your fish. In a sauté pan heat some butter and olive oil. Pat your fish dry and season with salt, pepper and some Panko on the side that goes into the pan first. Place your breaded sole in the sauté pan and cook until golden brown plus on the breaded side. Flip over your fish and cook 1 minute

Filet Mignon with green salad and ranch dressing

Filet Mignon with green salad and paired with Mastro Scheidt 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon DCV

You may have noticed this is the first picture of beef since the beginning of the shelter at home order. I don't eat a tremendous amount of cow to be honest. I like cow and cow pairs with Cabernet really well, but it has taken a back seat for special occasions these days.

That said, I talked to my long-time friend John, who happens to own a prime steakhouse in Clovis, to see if I could get some steaks off of him. Think of it as "take-out" that you cook at home. And another message, continue to support your local, family owned restaurants, they need and want your support not just now but all the time.

I love cooking steak classic French style in a saute pan and finishing in the oven. Take a hot pan, using bacon renderings, then sear off each side of the filet in the pan and transfer the steaks to a small pan and put in a pre-heated 425 degree oven for 10 minutes. Remove the steak from the oven and place on the open oven door. Season the steak with a pat of butter and allow to rest on the door of the oven for another 5 minutes. Yes, it takes patience to see your steak sit there (please don't walk into the oven door or burn yourself), but it's best that the steak stays warm but doesn't cook. Season the steak again with salt. I'm going for Mid-Rare+ on a thick cut 8oz filet.

Salad Dressing
3 tablespoons Mayonnaise
3 tablespoons Yogurt
2 tablespoons Vinegar
Several shakes Worchester Sauce
A couple shakes of Celery Salt, Garlic powder
Plenty of ground black pepper
Fresh or dry Dill

Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and let stand in the refrigerator for 20 minutes and test to see if you like it. The dried ingredients need time in the bowl to hydrate an incorporate into the wet ones, so don't taste the dressing until after it sets

Make a green salad however you'd like, my version in the picture was romaine lettuce, tomato, cucumber and homemade croutons

Recipe for Fried brown rice with grilled chicken

Fried brown rice with chicken and a Screwdriver

We got fancy with the Screwdriver and freshly squeezed several oranges from the backyard. Way better than your Dad's 70's Screwdriver

1 Cup Brown Rice (I get the Trader Joe's brand that is cracked and takes about 15 minutes to cook)
2 slices of bacon, cut into small pieces
1 Carrot, minced
2 Handfuls of Green Peas
3 Green Onions, Minced
3 Eggs, scrambled
5 Tablespoons Soy Sauce or Tamari
2 Tablespoons Sesame Oil (off heat, for flavor not for cooking)
1 Teaspoon of Hot Chili Bean Paste (Optional)
1 Chicken Thigh, sauteed (optional)

Fry/render your bacon and add your carrot. Cook for about 5 minutes. Add your rice and begin incorporating in your saute pan. Work it over for a while, you wanna dry it out, 10 minutes

Clear a space in your pan for the eggs. Drop them in and scramble them. When they are scrambled, incorporate your green onions, peas and mixed everything together, 3 minutes

Turn off the heat and add your soy sauce and sesame oil. Mix. Top with additional green onion

I like my fried rice in a tighter, narrow bowl so it stays hot. I topped with the optional chicken thigh and chili bean paste otherwise I'd be still be hungry

Recipe for Ziti with wilted kale, collards and chili

Recipe for Ziti with wilted kale, collards and chili paired with Mastro Scheidt 2017 Zinfandel

This is a rift on classic orecchiette with rapini and chili from Puglia. The collards give a slightly bitter edge to the dish and the chili I used is actually a Japanese style chili rather than standard red chili flakes from the grocery store. I’ve also used Aleppo pepper for this dish. I picked my 2017 Zinfandel as another rift on Puglian/Manduria Primitivo common in the south of Italy. This is a classic pairing

4 handfuls of Ziti pasta
½ cup of fully cooked collard greens and kale
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon dried chili
Pecorino Cheese, grated
Olive oil both for a quick sauté of the garlic and chili and for dressing the finished pasta

Fully cooked collards and kale...basically put the greens in a pot with a little water, olive oil, garlic, salt, cover it for an hour on low. Done, it's not rocket science.

As the collards and kale are already fully cooked; it will take longer to cook the pasta than the sauce. About 3 minutes before your pasta is fully cooked, heat the sauté pan and add 3 tablespoons of olive oil, the garlic, chili flake to the pan and let cook for about 30 seconds; then add all your collards and kale and toss everything through and keep the pan hot

When your pasta is cooked, drain quickly and add all the pasta to the saute pan with your greens and toss everything through. Shut off the heat and garnish with a couple more splashes of uncooked olive oil and your pecorino cheese and toss through again quickly. The dish is ready to serve

Bucatini all’amatriciana

Bucatini all’amatriciana with Mastro Scheidt 2017 Sangiovese Vecchio

1 slice double thick bacon cut into small chunks (yes, I know it’s should be Guanciale or Pancetta, but it’s a crisis and it’s what I’ve got in the kitchen)
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 teaspoon dried Aleppo pepper (or a regular red pepper flake is fine)
1 cup of tomato sauce (my previously made sauce included several whole sausages, yellow onions, garlic and black pepper – I removed the whole sausages from the sauce for this recipe)
Half a pound of bucatini
Grated Parmigiano or Romano Cheese, whichever you prefer
Small handful of chopped parsley

Get your pasta boiling, bucatini can take longer than you think

Cook your bacon in a sauté pan until cooked thoroughly and crispy. There should be just enough bacon drippings to complete the sauce. Add the three crushed garlic cloves and Aleppo pepper and cook for a minute. Then add all of your tomato sauce and warm everything through. It takes longer to cook the bacon than the actual sauce

When the bucatini is ready, drain the pasta quickly and drop all the pasta in the sauce (yes, I want a little of the pasta water in the sauce) Toss through the pasta and the sauce off heat until the pasta is thoroughly coated. Add some of your grated Parmigiano or Romano, all of the chopped parsley and serve

Mom's Pork Roast with carrot, onion and potato

Mom's Pork Roast with carrot, onion and potato, paired up with a 2009 Mastro Scheidt library wine, another shelter in place dinner.

One pot meals are about as easy as it gets, with an extra step, brown your pork roast. After that, just add your carrots, onions, garlic, potato and chicken stock. Put the top on the enameled cast iron and shove it in the oven on 350 degrees for about an hour.

Done.