Minestrone Soup Version 384

There are so many versions of Minestrone, there is no definitive one. All that matters is that you have something in the pantry and refrigerator to make it from. This is what I had that day.

Minestrone Soup (one version of many variations)

Bulk Italian style sausage, medium hot

2 Carrots, rough chop

½ large Yellow Onion, more finely chopped

2 Celery stalks, rough chop

2 Garlic cloves, finely minced

1 Potato, I prefer Yukon Gold, rough chop

1 can of diced, stewed tomatoes

Kale of Choice, ribs and all, cut up good so it breaks down

Chopped Parsley

2 cups of Broth of Choice or Water (I used half chicken broth and half water)

Salt and Pepper to taste

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Break up the bulk sausage into smaller pieces and brown it in a 3qt sauce pot on medium heat. When the sausage is browned (and make sure there is enough fat to do a little sauté), add the garlic and onion and slowly cook for about 5-8 minutes. When that’s done add all of your other ingredients to the pot and turn the heat up to high and bring this pot to a boil. Once it reached a boil, turn the heat down to a simmer and cook the soup until it gets some flavor, say 30 minutes or so. Taste for salt, pepper and flavor (it shouldn’t taste like water or tomato juice). If you want it “brothy” (if that’s a word) add some chicken/beef stock to the desired consistency.

Wine of choice, Mastro Scheidt 2017 Cuvee. It’s the all-weather, all-purpose wine.

Pasta with Artichokes and Bacon recipe

As many of us are experiencing during the time of crisis around the world of the global pandemic of Covid-19, we are reminded that we can actually cook at home. To that end, I’m a fan of pasta.

Pasta with Artichokes and Bacon recipe

Pasta, enough for two people, the shape should pick up stuff, like Fusilli, Bowties, Big Shells

2 strips of bacon, rough chopped (not a sweet style)

1 can of artichokes, with artichokes cut in half and drained of any excess water/oil

1 garlic clove, minced

3 solid pinches of a generalized dry Italian seasoning

3 pinches of rough cut parsley

1 tablespoon of butter (to finish)

Salt and Pepper to taste

Grated Parmigiano Reggiano to taste

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Cook the bacon in a hot sauté pan until almost fully cooked. Pour off any excess bacon fat (don’t worry, you’ll use it for another dish) Add your artichokes flat side down and slow cook with the remaining bacon in the pan until artichokes develop a caramelization on the bottom. Turn the pan heat down to mid-low and add the garlic, pepper, Italian seasoning, parsley and toss everything through.

When your pasta is done, drain it and add all the pasta to the sauté pan and the extra butter and toss all the items over and over to incorporate all the flavors together. Check for salt and pepper and make additions as necessary. Add some of the grated Parmigiano and serve.

I recommend the 2019 Mastro Scheidt Hunter Bordeaux inspired white wine blend.

Mundial Bar, Barcelona

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Crazy Green Things

Crazy Green Things

Mundial Bar, Barcelona

This place is about as old school as it gets. A single waiter might walk 30,000 steps a day in 500 sq ft because he was non stop taking care of roughly 30 customers. One guy taking care of 30 guests. Awesome. Also, there is only one guy in the kitchen. Just one and he is working his little closet of a space to knock out every dish in this place. Two guys handling an entire restaurant for dinner. Two guys. Major credit given for the work ethic at Mundial.

Upon entering Mundial, I spied some crazy green things on a plate. I say “crazy green things” because green vegetables in Spain seem to be as rare as diamonds. The green things were padron peppers which were wonderfully pan scorched and seasoned generously with salt. I’m thinking my near 50-year old body could use some fiber; and green veg and peppers sounded like a refreshing treat. Yep, delicious but not the best item here.

No reason to go too far out of the box at Mundial and keep it simple. Croquettes, Patatas Bravas, red wine. The Patatas were the best I had in Spain. Great fry job and aioli duo of classic heavy garlic (more like the Armenian style garlic sauce than aioli) and the second aioli spiked with smoked paprika..The two different types of croquettes were ok, the bacalao fritter tasted more of potato than fish, with two of the them being cold in the middle. The chicken croquettes were super hot and fresh fried but tasted of older thigh meat. I’m batting 0-2 on croquettes in Spain, but I’ll keep swinging.

As I set up in the previous review with Bar del Pla, I’m finding that each tapas bar has something they do extraordinarily well. In Bar del Pla’s case, it’s braised meat. In Mundial’s case, it’s Patatas Bravas and Padron Peppers. I’m sticking with my theory that it’s going to be difficult for any old-school tapas bar to “run the table” on all things tapas. Rather, the “tapas crawl” might be a better idea when it comes to eating tapas and it shouldn’t be difficult, many of these places are open all day and they certainly don’t close until late.

More reviews and more food pics to come…

Best Patatas Bravas of the entire trip!!!

Best Patatas Bravas of the entire trip!!!

One Man Army in the Kitchen

One Man Army in the Kitchen

Bar del Pla, Barcelona

Braised Cheek

Braised Cheek

Bar del Pla (a guidebook favorite) in Barcelona was packed all day with locals and tourists alike. I’m not here to bash the guidebooks, far from it. They serve a useful purpose, enlightening first-time travelers to a city or region. But, just like wine ratings written by the casual drinker with no experience, the conventional wisdom often leads to a herd mentality, “if everyone else is drinking/eating Brand X, maybe I should too”.

Praise the Braise!

Bar del Pla is located in the heart El Born. It’s a classic place to eat The highlights for me were the ox tail topped with foie gras and the long braised braised cheek. Yep, two braised dishes that were solid and worth singling out Bar del Pla. These two braised dishes were the best braises the whole trip! Sauces were concentrated and reduced, flavors were bold and warming, classic execution of braised meat.

However, the rest of the food wasn't worth the hype online that this place gets. The croquettes at del Pla were the size, shape and crispiness of an egg roll or spring roll; not a bad thing. The inside was sort of creamy and chicken filled. Was it good? Sure. Should you drop everything to come here? Nah. If anything, I suddenly wanted an actual Thai/Vietnamese style spring roll. Croquettes are served practically everywhere in Spain. Keep searching. Bar del Pla are good, but there are better.

There was even an attempt at tacos here with another braised meat. Perhaps, to a European who’s never been to Mexico and never had tacos, the tacos at del Pla will be totally new and interesting. To me, they were meh.

Come to Bar del Pla for a braised meat tapas, a drink, and move on if you’re hungry. Trust me, there are croquettes, jamon and patatas bravas everywhere else in Barcelona and you should give them a try and move on from the guidebook. And skip the tacos.

Croquettes on the left, Ox Tail with Foie Gras on the right

Croquettes on the left, Ox Tail with Foie Gras on the right

Bar del Pla Tacos

Bar del Pla Tacos

Ramblero in La Boqueria Market, Barcelona

Ramblero in La Boqueria Market, Barcelona

La Boqueria or Mercat Boqueria Barcelona is one of the busiest markets #thewinemaestro been to at lunch time, regardless of the country or city. The only market it compares to in terms of busyness that I've been to is Djema el-Fna in Morocco at dinner back in 2006.

Djema el-Fna in Morocco, 2006

Djema el-Fna in Morocco, 2006

When researching the Boqueria Market and where to eat, based upon every TV show, online mag, Google search, etc. they all say to go to Quim and Pinotxo. Why? Who knows. If you’ve ever looked up ‘Lobster Rolls in Maine’, Red’s Eats ALWAYS comes up and is ranked #1. Why? Don’t know. I’ve been to Red’s, it’s good but there are plenty of other choices in the ENTIRE state of Maine that I’ve been to that are equally as good and waaaaay less busy…but I digress.

Pinotxo is at the entrance to Bocqueria, so it's the first thing every tourist sees plus the queue to get a seat; so good luck with Pinotxo. Quim was about as un-organized as it gets. People are waiting behind other people getting up to leave, only the staff really know who is in line next, but refuse to say who is next when asked, it’s all sort of laissez faire; EXCEPT when two seats open up and you sit down. Then suddenly, by some miracle, the staff finds their voice to say the seats were reserved. This happened twice at Quim. At that point, I’m done, which is why we bailed. Based upon that, we tried Ramblero..

Why Ramblero? One huge shellfish plate after the other and controlled turnover of the seating. It's a tourist location, like everything else in El Boqueria, it's on the map, there's probably better, but you're here, so sharpen your elbows and grab the credit card, you might as well eat and you’re gonna pay for it.

Ramblero will tell you to get a platter of fish. They told each guest the same thing, “We suggest the fish platter.” They push shellfish, but since my gout knows about shellfish and baitfish and the trouble it can cause, it was firmly suggested by me that no shellfish be brought, only seafood with scales and suckers. Well, they brought out salmon, tuna, sea bream, sea bass, calamari, octopus all stacked on top of potatoes and garnished with cabbage, olive oil, lemon, and some greens. Basically, a mound of fresh seafood served on a plate in a total time of 8 minutes from order to plate.

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Mound O’Fish at Ramblero made quite an impact in terms of quality, simplicity, speed to table and sheer size. I have zero complains about the food. None of the fish was off, all of it was cooked properly, and seasoning profile was good.

The downside to the whole place is, it's cramped. You've been served a beautiful mound of fish and it's not meant to be savored and enjoyed, it’s meant to be efficiently eaten as it was prepared quickly to make room for the next customer who also read online that no trip to Barcelona could be complete without a trip to the Boqueria Market! Blah Blah.

A memorable meal for sure, although not our favorite of the trip, (it was crowded, loud, not relaxed, touristy, and we felt hustled the entire time), but it was an experience. Table turning is an art and science here. Chalk it up to the "10 Places You HAVE to Eat in Barcelona" if you believe in that sort of thing.

First Impressions of Barcelona, Spain

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Barcelona

As a neophyte to Spain, #thewinemaestro saw Barcelona like he sees Rome, a great place to fly into, but the whole point is to move on to a smaller city. The advantage of Rome over Barcelona, Rome has plenty of things you can see (from a historical perspective) just from walking around. There is no Coliseum, Spanish Steps or Trevi Fountain in Barcelona; sorry. Barcelona's main attractions, Sagrada Familia and other Gaudi attractions are all “pay to see inside”, which means you have to plan your visit, buy tickets, and schedule stuff. Same with the Picasso Museum. Let’s face it, #thewinemaestro is not a huge museum goer. I’d rather wander around town and see what people do and what they’re eating and drinking.

In terms of where tourists congregate in Barcelona, it’s all about El Born, Gothic and La Rambla (all of the world is on La Rambla). El Born and Gothic are neighborhoods with plenty of things to eat and drink. La Rambla is one big long street with a lot of humans and shops.

We stayed in Poblenou, a neighborhood nearly 2 miles away from El Born and an easy walk each day to see whatever sites interest you. I didn’t see a single tourist in Poblenou, or at least none that stuck out. Poblenou in the summer could be a great place to stay; the beach was a 10 minute walk from the apartment. In many ways, Poblenou was much like The Outer Richmond District in San Francisco that I lived in in the late 90’s; locals only, no tourist attractions, great neighborhood to live in, close to the beach, quiet and a couple miles from the hustle and bustle of the city.

I think after my stay, Barcelona, like San Francisco, is all about the neighborhood. Find ones you like and explore them. El Born and The Gothic will always be there, just like The Financial District and Union Square will be there when I return to SF. If and when I return to Barcelona, I’ll check out some different neighborhoods and skip the museums, I want to see how people are living today while enjoying a glass of vermut.

The Maestro Takes a Vacation to Spain and Portugal

As a working winemaker and owner, it’s difficult for #thewinemaestro to take vacations and truly “check-out” of the daily routine. However, there is one time of year that it slows down, just after Christmas. Most people are wrapped up in New Year’s resolutions of eating healthy, working out and going dry in January. I, on the other hand, can slip away for a little while and eat cured meats, drink copious amounts of wine (and vermouth it seems) and walk around cobblestone villages till midnight working off my 9pm dinner.

Overlooking Granada from the Alhambra

Overlooking Granada from the Alhambra

So that’s exactly what I did, I took a trip to Spain and Portugal; I’ve never stepped foot in either country and Southern Spain has nice weather in January. Luckily, there are direct flights these days to Barcelona, where I started and ended my holiday. In between the Barcelona bookends it was a world-wind type of trip, Lisbon, Seville, Granada; sticking with the south for warmer weather. I’ve given the short list of some of the great dishes and restaurants I checked out. I’ll detail more of them on the blog in the weeks to come.

The quick and dirty on some of the best dishes and Restaurants:

  • Pan con Tomate Tapisco, Lisbon

  • Croquettes, Bodegas Castaneda, Granada

  • Best Braised Meat, Bar del Pla, Barcelona

  • Chicharrones, Bar Alfalfa in Sevilla

  • Best Salad, the one I prepared at my AirBnB

  • Fried Cuttlefish aka Fish Sticks Tapisco, Lisbon

  • Tortilla Espanola, Petra, Seville

  • Biggest Pile of Fish on a Plate, Ramblero within the Boqueria, Market Barcelona

  • Best Dessert, Chocolate Cake, Landeau Chocolate in Lisbon

  • Patatas Bravas, Mundial Bar, Barcelona

  • Paella...I haven't had it enough to make a judgement

  • Tartare of Fish, Tartare-IA inside TimeOut Market, Lisbon

  • Bocadillo, aka Sandwich, Taberna Malvasia, Granada

  • Vermut aka Vermouth, Terrazza Dona Maria, Seville

  • Red Wine, Horacio Simoes Segredos 2015

Highly noteworthy dishes and Restaurants…

Best Simple Dish made Creative and Elegant and shouldn’t pair well together: Slow and Low, Barcelona Artichokes in fonduta drizzled with chili oil with a heaping pile of freshly shaved truffles

Best Spin on a Classic, Suba, Lisbon and a “reinvented” Tartare of cooked beef in truffle cream.

Best Overall Dish: Hoja Santa, Barcelona Black garlic mole of 70 ingredients with avocado and pistachio (Yeah, I know, I fly all the way to Spain to rave about Mole’…blame Albert Adria and Paco Mendez for making incredible food!)

I’ll be focusing on each of the towns I visited and the individual dishes and restaurants, complete with pictures of the food and occasionally the scenery.

Spain and Portugal treated me very well. It was a welcome vacation. There are several blog posts to follow regarding the details of the food and wine, so stay tuned.

Pork Char Siu Recipe paired with Mastro Scheidt Zinfandel

Just a quick update and new recipe item for those interesting in pairing my 2017 Zinfandel. The 2017 Zinfandel, Lencioni Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley is dry farmed with a ton of blackberry fruit all over this wine, which is typical considering the location and the wild blackberries that grow everywhere. 2017 was a hot year, but we got the fruit off in the first couple days of September, so I'm not getting any cooked or raisin fruit flavors, but a lot of ripe black fruit. BBQ will be your friend here. Grilled meats would be a second choice, lamb to pork and everything in between. Certain types of complex sauces like mole’ and Hoisin will work well.

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Foot of the Bed Cellars in the Cave with Dave!

I tasted through nearly all my barreled wines with Martin and Luc from Foot of the Bed Cellars in San Francisco. Tasting with different palates and different backgrounds can be much more enriching of an experience than doing all the work in solitude.

Photo courtesy of founders Luc and Martin, Foot of the Bed Cellars

Photo courtesy of founders Luc and Martin, Foot of the Bed Cellars

Don’t get me wrong, I like solitude, the opportunity to block out everything and focus on the task; I always have. However, the inputs from others in a controlled setting are enlightening and the nuances others pick up can be more attuned than my own senses.

Photo taken by Luc of Foot of the Bed Cellars

Photo taken by Luc of Foot of the Bed Cellars

Take for instance my Merlot from 2017. Merlot happens to be one of Martin’s favorite varietals (I found out that morning). I didn’t really have a planned experiment in mind when we starting tasting the four barrels of 17 Merlot, but it soon became one of our longest discussions of the tasting. I barreled the merlot down to three new oak barrels, Gamba, Kelvin and Nadale and one neutral. The merlot came from Galloway Vineyards in Dry Creek Valley, harvested and fermented exactly the same, so the only variation is barrel time.

Many in the wine business use the term ‘American oak’ generically and homogenously, which does the American cooper a disservice. American oak is unique, as is French or Hungarian; as are American cooperages and the craftsmen that work the cooperage. In this micro tasting of Merlot, Kelvin cooperage in Kentucky is an American cooperage using American oak exclusively. Gamba is an Italian cooperage using French oak and Nadalie is a French cooperage operating in the United States using American oak. Quite the combination of styles and raw product, but that’s what can help finish a wine, just as one would use mesquite wood to finish a steak instead of cherry or apple wood.

Martin really focused on the Kelvin 36 month medium long Hydra barrel. Kelvin uses a steaming processes during barrel toasting that is incorporated to lengthen the open fire toasting process, thus penetrating deeper into the oak and mellowing harsher oak tannins such as vanillin or the aromatic coconut picked up in many American oak barrels, in the process, greater complexity is achieved for the American oak. I’ve been using Kelvin since 2010 on many a Bordeaux varietal and have been very happy with the results. There are greater baking spice notes, wisps of mocha, and not nearly as much sweet vanilla as you’d get from 24 month Kentucky or Virginia oak.

Photo taken by Luc of Foot of the Bed Cellars

Photo taken by Luc of Foot of the Bed Cellars

While Martin was pondering Kelvin, I was obsessing over the Gamba oak barrel. I initially put the new Gamba Allier forest oak on my 2017 Lencioni Vineyard dry-farmed Cabernet Sauvignon for about 6 months, I racked it off and took the Gamba and put it on my Merlot to finish. The Gamba is opulent and silky with both the Cabernet and the Merlot. Gamba does pack a punch though, and doing some research on Italian cellar technique, brought me to the idea of using the new oak twice in a single vintage, gradually moving from the strongest varietal, Cabernet, to something with less tannin, Merlot. I’ve even considered using this same Gamba barrel a third time in the vintage and aging some Barbera on it for a few months.

The Nadalie barrel was from their proprietary Symphony American oak line. A combination of various American oak forests, the oak is aged in a Pennsylvania yard 36 months minimum, which is the minimum aging that I use for American oak in my program and then final cooperage and toasting is completed in Napa. The barrel is toasted in a long and slow process, just as Kelvin, but without any steam applications. The results on the Merlot show more subtlety of oak on the fruit of the three cooperages, not overpowering the Merlot, but rounding out every edge. It’s likely that the Merlot on Nadalie Symphony is bound for blending and complimenting anything it’s blended with, especially Cabernet or Barbera.

Tasting with different people at various times during the wine aging process gives me a gift of insight I might not otherwise have, noticing nuance. Perhaps tasting with others who appreciate wine as I do also forces me to look at my own barrel program with a more critical perspective, verbalizing the decisions I’ve made and compelling me to make objective judgements about my own winemaking. Wine making is a lifelong learning process of both objective and subjective measures, the clichéd art and science of wine that many aspire to comprehend.

Back in the Game, the Restaurant Game

Part 2 of Who Wants to Try a $500 Wine?

20 minutes after I got through with Shackelford, I attended a private tasting at long-time friend John Marihart’s house. Back in the restaurant game, John was on hiatus from the restaurant business to start a family and a successful second career in the technology business before returning to the food and beverage business to open a prime steakhouse. John has goals; big goals, because just like in Road House, John will get enough sleep when he’s dead.

The double blind tasting was conducted by Sommelier Vincent Cho.  I was certainly ‘warmed up’ from tasting with Shackelford.

The highlight of the tasting, was the flight of Cabernet. My Jedi senses were strong late in the day, as I yakked poetically about Chateau Montelena in Napa, the stylistic nuances it has along with the historic Paris tasting, fresh with the memory of the more modern Schrader/Scarecrow/Hourglass in my brain. Knowing there was at least one French Bordeaux in my flight, I didn’t guess Lynch Bages, but was very happy to be moving back and forth, pondering between the Montelena and the Lynch Bages. The third wine in the flight, a ‘new American’ Matthiasson Cabernet was more about contrast in the flight, as the wine was very lean and acid driven. In the perfect world and combining both the Shackelford and Marihart/Cho tastings, going from a Matthiasson to Forman to Lynch Bages to Montelena to Schrader would be an incredible example of Cabernet in a range of styles and the history of California winemaking.

As a Cabernet winemaker, I want luxury in my young Cabernet, not lean fruit and mouthfuls of acid. If I’m pulling a cork on a $60 Cabernet I want it to drink luscious, not lean. I want decadent, not demure. Dark black brooding fruits, not red cheery cherry fruit. If I wanted lean and full of bright red fruit, we had one in our blind flight, the Jolie Laide Gamay Noir from El Dorado County. Lean and mean, it was all bright red acidic fruit and perfect to drink early with cheese and country pate’, not a steak.

Other standout wines included a Krug Grande Cuvee 163rd edition,  a flight of Chardonnay, 1st Cru Meursault from 09 and 16 and the Rajat Parr project Sandhi Mt. Carmel SRH. A great comparison of wines from both old and new world, yet strikingly similar in style, but that seemed to be the point. Another Somm project, Gramercy Cellars 2014 Lagniappe Syrah from Washington was dense and rich and opened up nicely, I went back to it with some of the smoked tenderloin that was offered for dinner. The final two wines of the tasting were a Brunello and a Rioja, textbook style Brunello that was my first real drink with dinner (meaning, I was done spitting) and a Rioja that was built for the American or export palate, showing the presence of the American oak in the front and mid palate.

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Not every wine is a great wine in these tasting formats. From the Marihart/Cho tasting, I’m still not a big fan of whole cluster fermentations. The green character they exude when whole cluster is being done for the sake of being called whole cluster is no different than putting 100% new oak on Cab because it checks some box, it is lazy wine making for the sake of being cool. When whole cluster ferments taste like yalanchi filled with green peppers dipped in a wheatgrass sauce, it didn’t work out the way you planned and don’t excuse it for terroir, it’s not terroir, it's sloppy and a poor experiment.

I'm looking forward to my next double blind tasting experience with Marihart Inc....carrying on 35 years of tasting everything from Keystone Light to Grand Cru Bordeaux.