Entries in Tradition (8)

Wednesday
Nov072012

Ninjas, Knives, and Cameras

“Fear causes hesitation,

and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true.”

Bohdi as played by Patrick Swayze in Point Break

Heather doesn’t appear to be a cold-blooded killer. She talked about the Act of Killing, hopefully, a disturbing thought for humans. She spoke of the Ninja Master who taught her. She described the steps. She followed the playbook. She thought about it, planned it like a First Degree Murder, told each and every one of us how it was going to happen. The victim was in her right hand, the knife in her left. And no one was going to stop her.

Photo by Heather Irwin

Of the entire Eat Retreat weekend, the most impactful session had to be the chicken slaughter. Yes, I’m using the term slaughter specifically now, rather than kill as I did before. Heather has slaughtered hundreds of animals without hesitation because of the purpose involved, providing food. But the first chicken she slaughtered Saturday morning, October 27 2012 a little after 10:42am, may not have gone as methodically as she was used to.

Why?

She talked about the slaughter at length before she committed the act.  If memory serves, Heather continued talking about the act of slitting a chicken throat after she placed the chicken upside down in the aluminum cone, (despite the editing job we’ve seen online). With the knife in her hand, she talked about involuntary muscle response, chicken poop, reminding us to be swift and act without hesitation. As she stretched the neck of the chicken, discussing the motion of the knife preparing for slaughter she says two things,

{quietly} Calm down {to the chicken as it struggled}

{then to the crowd} Alright, I’m just going to do this and we can talk about it later.”

Change the circumstances and the purpose for Heather, such as describing in detail what happens when you slit a chicken throat and the moment changes, the emotion changes, the purpose changes and it was clear to me in Heather’s speech; when she spoke to the chicken and then to the crowd. Heather was technically slaughtering a chicken, like she does on a daily basis for work. However, the emotion, mood and crowd changed the conditions to the pejorative; killing rather than slaughtering a chicken, describing the gory details for the crowd in front of her.

Photo by Heather Irwin

I’m guessing she doesn’t have a crowd of by-standers with digital video cameras when she does her day-to-day job.

The description of the slaughter seemed to resonate with a lot of spectators.  The expressions on faces, the talk leading up to the act of cutting, the quiet reverence in the semi-circle, and the discussion around the table that night all affected the simple act of slaughtering a chicken for food.

I’m a hunter. I’ve been a hunter for 27 years. Hesitation in hunting can lead to poor results and missed opportunities. 2000 years ago, hesitating to dispatch your objective could lead you to go hungry and die. These days, I’m more likely to kill myself driving to the grocery store than being attacked by a lion or bear.

I first shot an animal when I was 14 years old with a shotgun. As I wasn’t that great of a shot or hesitated or aimed poorly, sometimes I only wounded birds and therefore, had to wring some necks when I chased down the birds to finish the job. Poor shooting is disrespectful to birds or any other animal.

I’m a lot better shot these days.

I also don’t “think” about the act of shooting or describe shooting to people while hunting. Hunting is often a reaction to the situation. If I actually had to think about drawing the weapon, aiming, and pulling the trigger, much less describing what I’m going to do; like Heather describing how to wield a knife, I’d probably miss the damn shot. 

My brother and I shooting pheasants

Additionally, when I was the youngest member of the hunting party and as a right of passage, I had to clean all the birds shot that day by everyone, probably 40 birds on a 102 degree afternoon in Fresno County. Stinky, messy, bloody, warm, gross, but eventually tasty. I’ve only missed 3 seasons of hunting since I was 14. I’m not the youngest guy at the hunt anymore, but I still clean the birds I shoot and make sausage with the scraps of deer.

In the end, birds or any other animal are simply meat to be cooked later that afternoon or evening. I didn’t think anything of shooting birds when I was a teenager, other than I was carrying on a long held tradition of eating what I shot. I don’t think much of it now as a 41 year old adult either, whether by knife, shotgun, or rifle.

I’m hunting, slaughtering, and butchering the animal to eat it.

No hesitation. No fear. No detailed descriptions. 

Honor the animal by cooking it properly.

Photo by Mike Lee, Heather and David marveling over guanciale

Heather, you’re carrying on a long-held tradition of craftspeople, doing the job most modern people don’t have the temperament, fortitude, or discipline to do. You’re an example of what’s best about Eat Retreat, leading by example. I have the utmost respect for your craft, talent, and strength.

Thursday
Mar222012

D.Scheidt Backyard Garden 2012

Let's get something clear...I hate yard work.

Mowing the lawn, raking leaves, raking the other neighbor's leaves and pine needles pretty much all sucks. The smell of freshly cut grass does nothing for me because I can't smell it over the lawn mower exhaust to begin with. If I want to smell freshly cut grass, I'll open a bottle of Sav Blanc.

However, I'm willing to put in good labor for fruit. Makes sense, I make wine. So I'm willing to put in whatever effort it takes to have great tomatoes all summer long. I'm reasonably hard-core about NOT buying tomatoes in December or any other month in California other than the summer months. Canned tomatoes are just fine for sauces and stews in the winter anyway.

So planting 18 tomato plants this season, along with 4 basil plants, should allow me to get my fix in for the season. For those that care, I have included a diagram of the plantings as well as a picture of the garden area. The other two trees on the right are Apricot and Orange. The Apricot tree has bloomed and I will take measures to eliminate any bird/critter threats to my plants and trees.

Monday
Jan232012

Bari, Italy meets Fresno, California

I’ve known Carmela Marziliano of Bella Pasta (and new restaurant The Steak House), for 20 years. Her family comes from the same region of Italy, Puglia, that my family hails. Not only the same region, but the same towns, Bari and Bisceglia.  Which means, Carmela cooks in a very similar fashion to the food I grew up with.

I recall, nearly 20 years ago, holding a wine tasting party in my parents garage. I think it was the first large scale tasting I’d ever thrown. Generally, I do all of the cooking when I throw a party. I don’t want to have my guests stress over making something. However, in typical Italian fashion, Carmela brought a huge tray of cured meats and cheeses from the Deli (Sam’s, duh). She didn’t have to, but she did. What could make me more happy than a tray of cured meats?! Almost nothing.

I visited Bella Pasta last week with friends John and Falina. When I arrived at the restaurant (a little late), I was warmly greeted by Carmela with a big "Ciao David". Truth be told, we haven’t seen each other in several years. But that doesn’t matter. It may sound cliché, but that Italian Connection often ignores time and space.

For those Cured Ham followers that care, I ordered the special of the evening, Italian meatloaf wrapped in bacon and stuffed with sausage, served with a side of penne pasta in gorgonzola cream. My portion of meatloaf was so large, I actually took half home! (My lunch the following day...meatloaf topped with tallegio.) I also sampled the classics, spaghetti and meatballs and gnocchi pomodoro which John and Falina ordered. We dined over a bottle of my Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet, perfect with what we were having. 

After we finished dinner, Carmela returned to the table to see how our meal went. We all talked for probably another 45 minutes about all things Italian, wine, ricci (sea urchin), bread. Ricotta Forte came up. It’s a stinky and strong ricotta cheese favored in Puglia that takes some getting used to. I ate that cheese several times when I was staying in Locorotondo, Puglia, just outside of Bari.

A bit more about Ricotta Forte. Since nothing goes to waste, left-over ricotta is packed in salt and allowed to age outside in the shade for several days or it’s simply left to ripen without the salt pack where it can get creamy if you stir it regularly. Forget your United States health department sensibilities with regard to this cheese.

 

We talked making cheese, sausage, and curing our own salami; skills that seem to have been lost here in Fresno by far too many private citizens and restaurateurs, either because of regulations, the ease of bringing product in or simply forgotten.

It was a pleasure to catch up with Carmela. A lot is going on in her world and Fabian’s, her husband. They recently opened The Steak House at Clinton and Hwy 99. I wish them the best in all their pursuits.

Carmela and Fabian, tanti auguri, I migliori auguri.

Tuesday
Jan172012

Marco and David make taralli!

Rolling, Rolling, Rolling, keep those taralli's rolling.

We're still working on perfection here. These things are tough to do and there seems to be a difference in the recipe and technique between Fresno and Healdsburg. I can't quite explain it yet, but we'll figure it out.

Thursday
Nov172011

Fresno FYI, The Grape Tray carries Mastro Scheidt Wines!

Based on the success of our first formal tasting held in Fresno on November 12, The Grape Tray is now carrying all three of Mastro Scheidt Family Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon's. We are all very happy to be working with Stan and his staff in promoting our wines in the Fresno area.

The Grape Tray is located at:

5091 N Fresno St # 126

Fresno, CA 93710-7695

(559) 226-6828